Blog da Bruxa Si - Panos & Encantos

bead ring

2008-11-02T17:39:00.000-02:00

Beaded Rings and Beaded Headbands

Quick and Simple Beaded Projects
It's actually a ton of fun making these simple rings. Kids will love them and I bet you will too. They're great for using up dabs of leftover beads. Here's how you make 'em:

First pick out a big bead for the center. "Big" is a relative term, anywhere from 4 to 10mm will work, but you'll want to scale your ring beads to fit the size of your center bead. For a very large center bead use size 6 ring beads, for a small one, use size 10 or 11 seed beads. Use doubled thread for this project. Pick up enough ring beads to reach from the hole halfway around the center bead, and the center bead. Then pick up the same number of ring beads minus one. Go back through the first ring bead you picked up in the first set of ring beads. Tie the short end and the long end of your thread together in a square knot.

Now pick up enough beads to fit around your finger and around half the center bead. Go through the center bead.

Pick up the same number of beads as you picked up in the second set of ring beads in the first step. Count down the number of beads you just picked up from the center bead back on the other side and re-enter the next bead back.

Continue through the entire ring loop and up around one side of the center bead. Pick up one ring bead and go into the bead just across from the bead you left to bridge the gap. If that doesn't quite fill it, use two beads instead. Continue through the whole ring again and come up the other side of the center bead and bridge the gap on the other side. Continue through the ring again if possible to strengthen it. If you are using larger beads, go through the ring as many times as possible. On your final pass, tie off around the ring threads then complete the pass. Weave in the short end and you're done. You'll be amazed at how well the ring will hold it's shape!

This ring is a little more complicated but it's still relatively simple to make. You will need to know how to do brick stitch.

Again you'll need to choose a large center bead and some seed beads. I used a 8mm round bead for the center and size 11 seeds for the ring. If you use different sizes you will have to adjust the pattern accordingly.

This time we'll start with the part that goes around the back of your finger. Pick up two seed beads and tie them in a circle. Go up through the bead on the right. Pick up two more beads and go down through the bead on the left then back up through the bead on the right and the new bead above it. Pick up two more beads and go down through the upper-most bead on the left then up through the bead to the right and the new bead above it. Continue stacking pairs of beads this way until you have a strip that will reach around 3/4s of your finger.

Now treat the final two beads you added as the base row for brick stitch and add 3 rows of normally increasing brick stitch. The 3rd row should have 5 beads in it. Now work 4 rows of 2 beads each up from the left side of the 5 bead row as if you were increasing at the end of a row (you are!:-)). Then thread back down to the 5 bead row and weave to the other side of it and work 4 2 bead rows up the left side increasing at the beginning of each row. Then thread through the whole thing to get to the other end of the band and do the same thing on the other side.

Connect the large bead to each side of the ring in the manner shown below.

Now connect the two sides using the thread path shown below. If you have room left, go ahead and thread through the band to reinforce.

Now for a couple of headband ideas. Believe it or not, the idea for these came from a discount store! The first one was made from tacky plastic beads and elastic thread, but we'll make it with nicer beads and one of the elastic jewelry cords available.

This sample uses size 6 Japanese beads but you could even use semi precious stone beads if the holes were large enough. You need beads with larger holes because the elastic beading cord is quite a bit thicker than regular beading thread. The holes in size 6 beads are perfect. To make this headband use these flat netting instructions to make a strip 3 sets wide and long enough to fit around your head from top to bottom.

Connect the two ends of the strip to make a continuous ring. Do this by adding the beads needed to complete the net sections between the two edges. The following diagram shows how this is done. The black beads represent the beads added to connect the two ends.

This headband is *really* simple. Make two daisy chains (with regular beading thread) using these directions for Daisy Chains, Open and Closed. Make them long enough to reach from just behind one ear, over the top of your head to just behind the other ear. Then sew the ends to a length of heavy elastic long enough to reach the rest of the way around your head. It should be just snug enough to hold your hair back. Try to find elastic that matches the main color in your daisy chain or, failing that, one that matches the hair color of the person who will be wearing the headband.

I hope you have fun with these. They would make great stocking stuffers, don't you think?

bead ring

2008-11-02T17:38:00.001-02:00

models for bead rings

These rings, in seed and crystal beads, are made using the techniques of bead weaving.
Here's a simple model of a ring you can make using our instructions.

For original, sophisticated models that show off the Swarovski ®, crystal range to their best, visit our gallery

«Jewelry and beads»

Make your own bead rings

Thread the beads using nylon thread or brass wire (29 gauge): it's up to you to see which material you prefer. Nylon thread lets you draw the beads more tightly together, but has to be held in place, while the brass wire stays in place by itself, although it's more difficult to thread the beads snugly together.

You can add faceted beads, glass bead or Swarovski R beads to seed beads for a glittering effect. Once you've understood the principle of weaving, you can easily make your own bead rings. The possibilities are endless !

Diagram for a seed bead ring model

Diagram key

Instructions for the making of this model of ring
Midway along a 40 inch long thread :
Row 1 : thread a golden bead, a tube bead, another golden bead.
Row 2 : thread three seed beads, pass the other end of the thread through these three beads.
Row 3 : Thread one golden bead, one seed bead, one large green bead, one seed bead and one golden bead. Thread the other end of the thread through the green bead and the seed beads but not the golden beads.
Repeat, with the help of the above diagram.
Row 4 : One golden bead, one seed bead, two large green beads, one seed bead and one golden bead.
Row 5 : One golden bead, one seed bead, one large green bead, one large white bead, one large green bead, one seed bead, one golden bead.

Row 10 during weaving	Row 6 : One golden bead, six seed beads, one golden bead. Row 7 (center) golden bead, seed bead, white bead, the center bead, one white bead, one seed bead, one golden bead. Row 8 : like row 6. Row 9 : like row 5. Row 10 : like row 4. Row 11 : like row 3. Row 12 : like row 2.
Rows 13 and 14	Row 13 : as for row 1. Repeat this row until you have the size of ring you want.

To finish off your ring, rethread the threads through the first two rows and one of the threads in the third row. Tie a double knot then rethread through two more rows and cut the thread.

This ring was made in similar fashion, but using strass beads around the central bead and faceted beads to catch the light...purists will use Swarovski R crystal beads for a better play of light.

Hint
You can use a nylon thread joined with a very thin brass wire : the ring will be stronger and the nylon won't unravel during the making of the ring.

To make a bead ring that's more simple, check out the twist ring method.

mais um grafico

2008-07-11T17:25:00.001-03:00

Lindo Grafico!

2008-07-11T17:22:00.001-03:00

Heart pin doll pattern

2008-05-28T22:34:00.001-03:00

Heart pin doll pattern

This pin doll pattern is brought to you by Nita Butler, © 2008
1.Trace pattern onto freezer paper.
2.Cut out the freezer paper template and iron to scrap of doubled fabric( I used muslin for the sample).
3. Stitch all the way around the template and then cut out leaving a 1/4 inch seam.
4. Make a small slit through one layer only and turn the heart through the opening and stuff, then close opening with a ladder stitch.
5. Use a soft lead pencil and lightly draw the face. When happy with the features outline the eyes with brown pigma or gel pen outline the nose as well with brown. Use white paint to paint the whites of the eyes. Color in the iris and add a dot of white paint for highlights. I used colored pencils to color in the eyelid and shaded the eyes and down sides of nose with terra cotta prismacolor pencils. Blend the colors with a Qtip. Add eyebrows. 6. Outline the lips with red gel pen and fill in the lips with desired color. Add a white highlight to the lips and shade above the lips and under the lips with terra cotta pencil. Draw a small heat at the edge of each lip for a dimple. I did a small amount of needle sculpting at the corners of the eyes and the corners of the mouth.
7. Add your embellishments for hair. I sewed on a few ribbon roses at the corners of each top side of the heart. I then used several different kinds of beads to string on some hair. I fasten off each strand of beads before beginning another.
Sew a pin back to the back of the pin and there you have it!
Enjoy!

moldes free!! Belos Ursos...aqui!

2008-05-09T18:48:00.001-03:00

http://www.bearycheap.com/free%20patterns/patterns.html

Lindo Xale de Corações em Crochê

2008-05-08T08:01:00.001-03:00

http://crochet.about.com/library/n030107cht.htm

PAP Tulipas de Pano

2008-05-06T08:19:00.005-03:00

Lindas Tulipas....

Tudo sobre fuxicos

2008-05-06T08:17:00.001-03:00

Matéria muito boa sobre fuxico e suas varias formas....aqui:

http://ajpadilla.com/tutorials/all-about-yo-yos

fada encantada

2008-05-04T10:05:00.003-03:00

Encontrem esta Fada Encantada aqui:

http://www.utilisima.com/manualidades/index.php?seccion=trabajo&IdTrabajo=2457

linda ideia para cozinha!

2008-05-04T09:56:00.001-03:00

Os moldes voce encontra aqui

http://www.utilisima.com/manualidades/index.php?seccion=trabajo&IdTrabajo=2457

frutinhas

2008-04-29T09:48:00.000-03:00

maçãs de pano

2008-04-29T09:45:00.004-03:00

Morangos de pano

2008-04-29T08:20:00.002-03:00

Moranguinhos!

cenoura de pano

2008-04-29T08:17:00.000-03:00

Cenourinha!

alface de pano

2008-04-29T08:06:00.005-03:00

Alface fresquinho!

Frutas de Pano - Pera

2008-04-29T07:57:00.003-03:00

Huummm...que delicia!

PAP Eco Bag

2008-04-27T22:11:00.002-03:00

O PAP voce encontra aqui: http://www.allfreecrafts.com/sewing/shopping-bag.shtml

PAP Margarida de Feltro

2008-04-27T22:09:00.001-03:00

O PAP voce encontra aqui: http://www.futuregirl.com/craft_blog/index.aspx

Annie Pin

2008-04-27T19:24:00.002-03:00

Vejam que linda! Procurem o molde Free aqui http://www.dollmakersjourney.com/annie.html

Lined Tote Bag Knitting Pattern

2008-02-27T08:05:00.001-03:00

Lined Tote Bag Knitting Pattern
Designed by Cass Long
Size:Approx 12" wide and 10½" high

Gauge:18 sts=4" in Rice Stitch
Materials:Size 7 US (4.5 mm) needlesBlunt tapestry needle½ yard lining fabric Pehuen by Araucania1 skein Color 03 (Greens)1 skein Color 07 (Browns)100% cotton100 grams/99 yards

InstructionsNotes: I consider this pattern to be advanced intermediate. The knitting itself is quite simple, but the construction of the bag is more difficult if you've not sewn before. I used a sewing machine to make the lining and to sew the lining into the bag. If you're not adept with a machine, consider buying a fabric tote bag with similar dimensions and cutting it to fit your tote, and sewing it in by hand. The pieced top edge of my lining is not included in this pattern. I simply pieced strips of scrap fabric, sewed them onto the lining, and cut to fit the tote.
Reverse Rice StitchRow 1 (RS): purlRow 2: *k1, p1; rep from *
With Color 07 (Browns), CO 54 sts. Work in Reverse Rice Stitch for 1¼" (approx 10 rows).Switch to Color 03 (Greens) and work in Reverse Rice St for 7".Switch to Color 07 (Browns) and work in Reverse Rice St for 5".Switch to Color 03 (Greens) and work in Reverse Rice St for 7".Switch to Color 07 (Browns) and work in Reverse Rice St for 1¼".BO in pattern and weave in ends.Make StrapWith Color 07 (Browns), CO 14 sts. Work in Reverse Rice St for 26". BO in pattern.
FinishingBlock. Piece should measure approx 12" by 21½".Fold bag in half, right sides together, matching color changes, and pin. Sew the seam using matching yarns and blunt yarn needle. Turn right side out.Cut fabric lining 13" x 24½". Fold in half, right sides together, and seam sides using ½" seam allowance.Leaving fabric lining turned inside out, set it down into the tote, and fold down the upper edge (wrong sides together) until folded edge is ½" below top edge of tote. Pin to mark the fold, remove from the tote, and press edge down, forming top of lining.To make the gussets, turn tote wrong side out, and hold it with the side seam facing you. Flatten the bottom of the bag, making a triangle at the bottom corners of the bag. Pin 2 inches from corner tip, and sew across the bottom of this triangle you have formed. Tack down the gusset to the bottom of the bag. Repeat for the lining.Pin the ends of the strap onto the sides of the tote, matching centers of strap to side seams, approx 1½" down into tote. Sew in a square shape to strengthen this join.Turn tote right side out, and set the lining into the tote with wrong sides together. Pin all around the top of lining. Machine or hand sew around top of lining, ¼" down from top edge of lining.
Visit Cass's blog Shut Up I'm Writing Patterns at http://shutuppatterns.blogspot.com/
See Abbreviations and the Glossary for help.

2008-02-27T07:45:00.002-03:00

Baby Slippers Knitting Pattern

My biggest problem as a sock knitter, is what to do with my left over yarn, in particular with these no bigger than a walnut darling balls of yarn. Yesterday, as I was packing all this week's colorways to be shipped from Hawaii to Brussels, and occasionally staring at the little yarn walnuts on the table, I found what I wanted to do.
For every pair of socks, I would knit a pair of baby slippers. So I took a little break from packing, grabbed my trusted Addis, and a little yarn walnut, and got to work. Here is the result. These slippers are magic to work. NO SEAMS at all, no origami construction, all garter stitch, mostly knit in the round, and about one pair per hour! My promise to myself is that I will knit a pair of slippers for every pair of socks I knit, and that I will donate the slippers to my local community health center.
These slippers are newborn size, but can easily be made bigger by knitting the even section of the sole longer and picking up more stitches along the sides of the sole.

Materials:1 skein SockPixie Merino Sock YarnSize 1 US (2.25 mm) double pointed needles or 2 16" circulars You may use straight needles to begin the pattern
Gauge:30 sts= 4 inches in garter st
InstructionsSole:Note that the sole is knit in garter stitch, knitting back and forth.Cast on 7 stitches.Knit 2 rows.Repeat the following 2 rows until you have 15 stitches.Row 1: K1, knit into front and back of next st, knit till 3 stitches are left, knit into front and back of next st, k2Row 2: Knit
Knit even in garter stitch until the whole sole from the cast on edge measures 2½".
Repeat the next 2 rows until you have 5 sts left.

Row 1: K1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts are left, k2tog, k1

Row 2: Knit
Do not BO. Keep these 5 sts on your needle, and with that same needle pick up 28 sts to the center of the toe. Take your second needle and pick up 29 sts from the center of the toe to right before the 5 original sts, and knit 2 sts from the first needle to the second. You will now have 31 sts on each needle. The beginning of the round will be at the heel. Attach marker to show location of heel.
The rest of the slipper is knit in the round, in garter stitch (purl one round, knit 1 round).
Round 1 and all odd rounds: PurlRound 2: K25, k2tog, k8, SSK, k25Round 4: K24, k2tog, k8, SSK, k24Round 6: K23, k2tog, k8, SSK, k23Round 8: K22, k2tog, k8, SSK, k22Round 10: K21, [k2tog] 3 times, [SSK] 3 times, k21Round 12: K18, [k2tog] 3 times, [SSK] 3 times, k18Round 14: K15, [k2tog] 3 times, [SSK] 3 times, k15Round 15: Purl
BO loosely knitwise.Weave in ends, make a second identical slipper, and find a lucky baby to give the slippers to!
For personal use only. © Caroline Dlugy-Hegwer and used with permission. Visit Caroline's blog Sockpixie.
See Abbreviations and the Glossary for help.

patchwork circle skirt

2008-02-15T07:29:00.003-02:00

Olhem que linda! Vou fazer uma pra Manu!!

patchwork circle skirt

do blog http://indietutes.blogspot.com/2007/05/patchwork-circle-skirt.html

The hardest part about this dress is not going bonkers while gathering the last layer. Make sure you have enough scrapes on hand, or head off to the thrft store for some pillow cases and free box goodies. Its best to have cotton-blends. Fabrics that have too much polyester will not iron well and do not make good patchwork. Try to find fabrics that are about the same weight, although this particular style is actually quite forgiving of odd ball pieces. And please note that I am using a 1/4" seam allowance. That mean each patch loses 1/2" in length as it is sewn.A quick overview:Tiered circle skirts like this one work by each successive layer being one and a half times longer than the last. Stitching together the patches is easy - you just sew the sides together to make a long chain of patches. All you need to figure out is how many patches go into your first layer, and then times that number by 1.5 for each layer you add. Sew the layers together by gathering the longer one and you have a skirt or dress that continues twirling long after you've fallen down.So, to begin:**determine how many patches you are going to need before you cut anything. You need to know the measurement of the waistband of the skirt (however you choose to rig that up) or as I did above, the length of the bottom of the little halter top of a dress.We shall call this measurement 'A'.**determine the size of your squares. Mine in these photos is 3". That is too small! Unless you are very anal, I'd suggest at least 4" for a child's dress and 6" or more for an adult skirt. You most likely won't want to do more than 5 or 6 layers, so figure out how long you want your skirt to be and divide that by 6 (keeping in mind you will lose 1/2" per square for seam allowance).Length of the patch minus .5" for seam allowance shall be measurement 'B'.**Now you want to figure out how many patches are equal to your measurement A.A divided by B = C Sample numbers for you. In the above photos, the halter top is 22". The patches are 3"A = 22"B = 2.5" (3" minus 1/4" seam allowance times 2)22" / 2.5" = 8.8 (Round this up to 9)C = the number of patches you need to stitch together to equal the the measurement of the A.With me so far?**Your first layer of the skirt we will call D:C x 1.5 = DSample numbers:C = 9 patches9 x 1.5 = 13.5 (round up to 14)Thus you need 14 patches for your first layer.**for your second layer (we'll call F)D x 1.5 = F**for your third layer (G)F x 1.5 = G** and so on for how many layers you desire. (But no more than 6, because that's just crazy).** add up all of your totals to determine how many patches you need overall. And then go ahead and cut. And cut. And cut.** stitch together your patches in lengths indicated by your D, F, G, ... measurements, and join the ends for form rings.** to form the circle itself, gather the 2nd layer by stitching a row with elastic thread or by machine basting two rows and pulling the threads to gather. (Gathering is a skill you learn by practice, and luckily, you will have much with this project.) Stitch the top (gathered portion) of your 2nd layer to the bottom of your first layer.** gather in each successive layer and stitch to the bottom of the one above. In this way, your circle gets bigger and your skirt gets longer.** the last few layers will become ungainly - do not be scared! The proportions of what you are sewing are constant, only the length of the hem is increasing. It will take much longer to sew the last layer versus the first, but I'm thinking that if you've gotten this far, you won't be giving up.Measurements for this exact dress:22" chest3" patch22 divided by 2.5 = 9first layer: 10 patches (I didn't increase the first layer because I wasn't thinking - d'oh)2: 133: 214: 305: 466: 68total: 188 square patchesJust so you know, that is over 14 feet long. Uh-um.